Where Desert Meets River

Big Bend National Park is in the Chihuahuan desert, is bordered by the Rio Grande River and covers over 1,200 miles in western Texas. The Chisos Mountains are in the centre of the the park, with the highest peak rising to 7,825 feet. Because of its varied terrain, it also has very diverse flora and fauna from cactus to cottonwoods, and more species of birds, bats, reptiles, butterflies, scorpions, and ants are found here than in any other national park.

At first we dithered about whether to drive the 240 miles from the Caverns but we heard so many favourite reports, we thought we had to see what what everyone raved about. Visiting in spring was also a bonus because so many cactus were flowering and their blooms were very unexpected. I couldn’t tell you how many photos I took because so often, flowers from the same cactus had variant coloured flowers. We were also surprised at the wildlife that thrived in the region, birds in particular.

The park is another of those chalk and cheese locations, with areas of arid desert and river habitats vying for the attention of an average 537,102 visitors per year for the last 3 years.

The day we arrived it was blowing the road runners over! The wind was so strong that at the overlook spot of the short nature hike we did from the campground, I literally had to stabilise myself next to a rock for fear of getting blown over. And we did get to see our first road runner. The real bird not Wile E. Coyote’s nemesis! They’re so much smaller than we imagined, but so speedy! It’s no wonder Wile E. never caught him.

There are 3 major regions in the park with campgrounds and trailheads for hiking. We spent 2 nights at Boquillas Canyon and 1 night at Santa Elena. Unfortunately, Joey was a few feet too long to travel the steep, windy road to Chisos Mountains.

As we found in many of the regions we’ve visited so far, the critters are incredibly varied, from mountain lions, to rattle snakes and scorpions. And they say Australia has deadly animals! To stop the larger animals from relying on or expecting food from peopled areas, parks often provide food safes, for people tenting or hiking over a few days. The rubbish bins are also latched securely.

Unfortunately, we didn’t see any bears.

Our first morning walk was to Daniels Ranch and half way along the Hot Springs trail. We saw a stunning sunrise and some of the varied terrain that Big Bend is renowned for. The ranch consists of a small adobe house, built in the early 1900s and an extensive system of ditches used to irrigate crops.

Hiking the trail over the hills to Hot Springs, it wasn’t long before the lush grass areas irrigated by the ditches gave way to rocky desert terrain. But the views from the climb were spectacular.

No matter how arid, we were still treated to vibrant colours from the flowering cacti.

Headed back to the campground at the entrance road we were treated to another sight we just couldn’t imagine. Everyone will have seen the Roadrunner and Coyote animated cartoons. We’ve joked about them on the few occasions we’ve seen a roadrunner (which, to be honest, I never thought was a real bird). I managed to sneak up on this one, which didn’t seem inclined to dart off as others have. Then, what do we see down the track a short distance? You guessed it! A coyote! I couldn’t get them in the same shot, but the bird was obviously trying not to be the coyotes breakfast.

Apparently, Wile E. Coyotes slim physique was based on Mark Twain’s description of a coyote in Roughing It, “a long, slim, sick-and-sorry looking skeleton”. The few we’ve seen looked like they were getting their fair share of roadrunner meals, but not this time.

On our drive out we saw views of these mountains in the distance from several angles and marveled at the unique cloud formations. Then we realised the clouds were hanging on the crests of the mountains and rolling off like very thick mist. Although not quite as much, the cloud still blanketed the mountain tops in the afternoon on our way back. If you look closely, you can see the shapes of the mountain tops through the cloud.

Reading through some of the literature on the park, we found that there’s a customs border post especially to allow crossings between a tiny village in Mexico called Boquillas and the park. While the river provides a natural border between the two countries for 118 miles, there are many places where the water is barely calf deep and a few feet wide, and others where it’s totally dried so it’s considered a “fluid” border. There were a couple of walks we did where we zipped across to Mexico just because we could. The fact that there is such inhospitable terrain on both sides and no major towns for many, many miles is apparently deterrent enough. So, we thought, why not take an impromptu trip across the border?

The following day, Sunday, we headed to the border crossing, passports in hand and cash in our pockets. The customs border officer was very official. He made sure everyone (there were about 10 of us at 12noon when we went) heard his customs spiel about what could and couldn’t be brought back across the border and that we all understood that the US border would shut promptly at 4pm. Apparently they don’t reopen until Wednesday, so as he put it, “have fun in Mexico for 2 days until 9am Wednesday and the office is opened again. I’m sure you could just tootle on back across, bypass the customs office and be on your way – until the next time you needed to provide your passport and they realised you hadn’t checked back in.

We’d been told there were 3 ways across the Rio Grande at the check point, wade through yourself, take a water craft across, or pay a Mexican $US10 for a return trip rowed across in a tinny. We opted for the tinny, however, aside from the very thick, gooey mud, oozing between your toes, you could easily walk across, as he did.

As you can see, there was no rowing!

When you arrive in Mexico, there are another 3 choices. The village of Boquillas is about 3/4 of a mile up a dirt road. You can ride a donkey or horse, be driven in a very suspect vehicle, or walk. We were also informed that the $US10 for the donkey or car included a “guide” for your time in the town. We opted to walk. We didn’t fancy riding a horse or donkey wearing shorts, nor did we want to have a guide. Just as well, because from the first signs of habitation to the outskirts of Boquillas was about another 3/4 of a mile.

There would have been 30 or more donkeys and a few horses saddled and tied up waiting for tourists to carry up the road.

There were several small boys trying to sell us woven bracelets for $5 each, which we politely declined and about a dozen very makeshift stalls as we wandered up the road with women selling small ‘trinkets’ as the border official called them. Very bright aprons, a few Aztec designed rugs, garishly painted broadbrimmed hats and some pottery. They also sold small, wire woven critters (scorpions, lizards, spiders, butterflies etc.), some with beads, which were actually quite clever, but at $US10 each we felt were too expensive. If we’d seen people making them or crafting some of the trinkets we would have been inclined to purchase something, but as we’d seen many of the same things in the ranger stations and the tourist shops in nearby towns, we suspected they were mass produced.

We did however, partake in lunch at the ‘family operated since 1972’ Cantina. There were 3 choices for lunch, this, rather large establishment where it sems all the tourists frequent, and 2 smaller places with limited menus. We asked for a menu at one of the small establishments and were told, “tacos with goat, very tasty. Tacos with beef, or tacos with cheese and beans”. We ventured across the street and found the Cantina very busy and clean and the menu a lot more substantial. Although probably a lot more “Americanised” we decided to err on the side of food caution!

Peter had the No 8 and I had the No 1, two of each. We were even serenaded by this fellow and his guitar, while we ate.

It was quite a large restaurant and almost all of the tables were taken, so we expect they made a tidy sum for a Monday. Interestingly, only the boys were accosting tourists to buy the bracelets, the girls and women were at their stalls barely touting for business and only the men were serving in the restaurant.

This outdoor courtyard had the most amazing mosaic floor and the courtyard looked across to the US.

In all, we spent about 2 hours on our sojourn into Mexico, enjoyed a nice lunch, were walked back across the river by our Mexican amigo and had a very short video conference with customs before being allowed back into the US.

That afternoon we drove to the Hot Springs to see where the old spa was. Since we’ve been in Big Bend we’ve seen a number of free range horses. At first we thought they were wild but after visiting Mexico and seeing how little water is in the Rio Grande, we expect they are left to graze and wander freely until someone comes to catch them.

Apparently, the Boquillas Hot Springs have been visited by people for thousands of years. Petroglyphs and some rock painting is evident on the walk to the spring and the Indians believed it was “old” or “ancient” water. It remains at 105 degrees F and contains dissolved calcium carbonate and sulphate, sodium sulfate and chloride and lithium and was revered as a health spa during the 1920s and 30s.

A store and post office was built in 1927 to cater to the miners from both sides of the river and with the increased advent of motor cars, and advertising the healing properties of the springs, an increasing number of tourists came to stay in the “spa accommodation.”

These buildings were once substantial and the surrounding area is a small oasis in the desert.

When we reached the spring there were two families with children, two couples and a single fellow, all bathing in the water. We didn’t bring bathers but were assured it was worth soaking our feet at least. It certainly was warm! The water continues to flow over the small rock wall in the river and provides a cool change for those soaking in the spring.

Our next morning dawned to an awesome sight. A small herd of the Javelinas we’d heard so much about were munching on the grass in the camping area. They’re the strangest looking critters. Like large guinea pigs, with no neck, a very chunky head and four teeny legs. The ranger told us that they’re one of the few animals that eats the prickly pear. I won’t tell you how many photos I took! And while we were enjoying watching the Javalinas, we also had a lovely chat with a Danish couple, on holidays in the area for 6 weeks.

This morning we were also relocating to Santa Elena Campsite along the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. It lived up to its name, giving us a wonderful insight into the desert region and we feel lucky to be here during spring when the cactus are at their blooming best.

We also marveled at how majestic and rapidly changing the landscape was. Words wouldn’t do it justice so here are some of the pictures we took along the drive.

We were also surprised to find a number of abandoned ranches and dwellings along the route from the 1900s. Although the Chihuahuan Desert is one of the most diverse arid regions on the planet, it receives little more than 10 inches (25cm) of rain per year. Any form of irrigation, as we’d seen with the canal trenches that were dug, were hard fought battles against extreme temperatures and conditions and explains why few settlers were sustained long term.

Other than the windmill which is maintained by the National Parks to keep this little green oasis watered, the only evidence of the homestead built in the early 1900s here were some adobe ruins. Giving an indication of the groundwater, these cottonwood trees were a very surprising corpse of greenery in the landscape and a haven for the birdlife.

Our next stop was a 3.5 mile hike along the Upper Burro Mesa Pouroff. After a short hike along the trail, we reached a gravel creek bed which, after substantial rain, becomes a flowing watercourse and terminates after the 3.5 miles in a 100 foot waterfall at the Lower Burro Mesa Pouroff.

When we began the hike, we didn’t realise how majestic the canyon was or, how abruptly the walk concludes!

We were lucky to catch this lizard, sunning himself in the middle of the trail and showing off his beautiful colours.

The trail covers a 120 foot elevation, which meant climbing down and up several reasonably substantial rock ledges.

But the further along we hiked, the more amazing the canyon became so all the climbing and clambering was certainly worth it.

Very suddenly, without warning we came to the end of the hike and the sheer drop. You certainly needed you wits because there would be no coming back from the drop!

Having seen the canyon from the top, we had to visit the Lower Burro Mesa Pouroff so we could visualise where our hike had ended so abruptly. On the way we visited Homer Wilson Ranch, another settlement, abandoned in 1945 but incredibly well preserved.

The hike to Lower Burro Mesa Pouroff was only 1 mile long but gave us a great perspective of the canyon from below.

The spot we reached on the upper hike was in the centre of the canyon, almost at the skyline but just below the dark black shadow line.

That’s me for a little perspective of the size. I wasn’t prepared to climb any higher!

Our last stop for the day was the ranger station, which is currently temporary until the final replacements can be completed after the 2019 Castolon fire. On a day of 110F a grassfire in Mexico jumped the Rio Grande and fueled by strong winds, set fire to the Castolon Historic District, including the visitor centre. 950 acres burned and it was not completely contained for 13 days. Discussions and plans to rehabilitate the historic buildings are still ongoing.

Between 1912 and 1920 the Mexican Revolution brought uncertainty to the region and convinced the War Department to establish an army settlement. Camp Santa Helena consisted of corrals, barracks, recreation hall and officer’s quarters but their tenancy was short lived and abandoned once the uprising concluded. Although registered as historic places, the buildings were decimated in the fire with only the barracks remaining standing, albeit without its roof or internal fittings.

As we headed to the camp for the night, we witnessed the sun giving the landscape an orange glow as it set.

As our final day dawned, the surrounding wildflowers and greenery belied the fact we were in a desert. We even got a close up photo of a roadrunner.

We planned to hike the Santa Elena Canyon and complete the scenic drive out of the park. The Canyon trail was only 1.6 miles long but it wound its way along the Rio Grande, and up over the cliff 80 feet before heading back down to river level. The trail finished for us when we could no longer walk along the rivers edge without taking our shoes and socks off and walking through the water, which, considering it was barely a foot deep in most places, was certainly achievable for a reasonable distance.

We’re standing in the US on the right, and the cliff on the left is in Mexico.

I managed to sneak up on this bird, who didn’t seem the least bit concerned about our presence.

This was as far as we were prepared to go, however the Rio Grande was barely ankle deep here so we could have walked barefoot for quite a distance up the canyon.

Another spectacular vista that also confirmed how wild and unforgiving this landscape could be.

Our drive out of the park took us past more of the amazing features and landscapes in the park, but we felt we were ready for the next chapter of our trip.

We’re prone to name geological features, the cave formations for example, and these mountains are no exception. So, what do think these mountain formations are called?

I thought they looked like Batman ears, but no.

We learned that all of the displays here were uncovered in the immediate region and in the 1960s the original archaeological discoveries were displayed, until some were stolen. These displays therefore, are all plaster casts of the originals, which are now housed in the Natural History Museum.

It’s amazing to think that this entire skeleton was uncovered here. Along with the jaw of a T Rex relative and the ancestor of modern horses.

As we head out of Big Bend National Park, we’re very glad we decided to come here. We learned a lot about the desert, the river, the people and animals that were once here and those that still call this region home. But now it’s onto our next adventure…